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Whenever curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked prominently among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.